TOKYO IN THREE DAYS
No I am not a wino, but I am a fan of small dive bars (and upmarket ones too), hard to find places and creating interesting memories. Tokyo could keep me writing for months. there is literally so much to see and do its hard to know where to begin. I am fortunate to have had the benefit of having visited many times before. Each time I try and do something different. Its a city I never tire of, and whilst it has changed enormously in the 30 years I have been going there, in some ways it is still the same. At least I don’t get stared at like a she devil any longer and I manage a smattering of Japanese, although English is widely spoken, don’t rely upon that. Its always good to have a few basic polite phrases in store, and of course the essentials such as where are the toilets, and do you have coffee and wine!
NB: Any links I have added here are purely for assistance and in no way are advertising for these sites.
I was reading recently on one of my favorite travel blogs Nomadic Matt , his blog post on experimental travel and the fact this is a BS term is well worth a read. “when you travel you eat the local food, soak up the local culture, take public transportation, and talk to people. Just travel….” I totally agree and I don’t get sucked into new and interesting ways to spend my money, rather I research, and read blogs such as this and start making plans based on new discoveries.
So my time in Tokyo this time was much more one of immersion rather than sightseeing. Travel shapes who we are and time spent observing, learning and understanding all adds up to a greater understanding of life itself and people and ultimately oneself.
TWO DAYS IN TOKYO.
Of course if you haven’t been to this magnificent, modern and diverse city most Google searches will render the ubiquitous top ten things to do list so I wont regurgitate that here, but rather I tend to look for some more unique things to see in the city. However I do recommend a site called Truly Tokyo written by a Lonely Planet guru that is super helpful!
GETTING AROUND – A Japan rail pass is a great , easy way to get around, but do your sums as if you are only going for a few days it may well be cheaper to do the sectors individually. For me, I was only going between Tokyo and Kyoto as the major piece of internal travel and after much research I opted to use the Passmo card for all my city trips and then purchased a shinkansen ticket to get to Kyoto. The Man in Seat 61 was a wealth of information, although very comprehensive I was looking for more immediate answers and found the Tokyocheapo site to be excellent . I took their advice and went on the Platt Kodama train which was both fast and cheap!
WHERE I STAYED – I chose to stay the first night close by to the airport, if you are flying into Narita beware, as it can be a long haul into the city. Narita village is only ten minutes from the airport and the hotel I picked also had a free shuttle. It was very reasonably priced- around $50 per night and I felt completely refreshed to then get on the train and enjoy the view into the city the next morning.
The train was easy enough, just be a bit patient as it can be confusing trying to understand where you need to go and how to get there, but everyone is so willing to help, relax and enjoy the unique city that lies in wait.
Taito- Ku, on the Hibiya line was a super convenient spot. The Hibiya line has stops for most of the major spots on the sightseeing route, making Taito-Ku a central, affordable area to stay. I was rapt with my choice, a large apartment on top of a soba noodle shop ( that is only open weekends so he doesn’t rent it out then) and it was truly eclectic. Thanks Airbnb
The time difference is awesome! so I am up at 5 am ready to go, which I love incidentally.
KAPPABASHI- or Kitchen Town
Love gadgets and knives? this place will have you sorted. Whilst many shops cater to the commercial trade end of town many are stocked with individual items such as the famous Japanese steel, Kappabashi is a long street located between Ueno and Asakusa easily accessible and can be part of a day trip to all there areas. Read here for a useful article and perfect directions on how to get here. As a caterer I LOVE to spend time here each visit and come home with colorful and interesting pieces every time, The knives I bought here 30 years ago are still my pride and joy.
A restaurant venue this area is not. There are not many places to grab coffee , let alone lunch, but out of the blue we found this Italian restaurant that has been in the area for over 30 years, it was extraordinary, we discovered it completely from my friends memory and voila, ended up talking for ages to the owner whose daughter had been a student of my friend all those years ago. Seriously good Italian food. So far I have spent all day not eating Japanese food… we will need to fix that! Check out the creation below, not my lunch but a plastic window creation. You can even do a mini course at a shop called Ganso Sample and make your own mini takeaway food. Ill put that on the list for next time.
OMOTESANDO- Is a wide tree lined avenue leading to Harajuku. It is full of elegant high end shops. Sat down for a coffee but honestly balked at the price of Y900 ( approx $10 AUD) and by now I was hankering for ramen. Being a vego, eating good Japanese can sometimes be challenging to say the least, so almost at Harajuku station I saw a vegan Ramen sign , in English I walked almost in a trance like toward it.
HARAJUKU After a wonderful bowl of steaming hot ramen we are off again. A trip to Tokyo for me always includes a stroll through Harajuku. Here you will find all manner of weird and wonderful , cute and quirky. I am talking about costumes, gadgets, cat cafes and even hedgehog and owl cafes. Personally I am totally against any manner of animal exploitation but there you have it, Japan really does not do things by halves.
DAY TWO The first order of the day was to get my ticket for the next stage of the trip, so a visit to Tokyo station was in order. As you may recall I decided on the Platt Kodomo shinkansen and you actually have to go to the ticket office to purchase this. Follow the directions given on the website link above and all will be well. I always think getting around a train station is part of the adventure anyways.
UENO I love Ueno for its sprawling park , which was originally part of Kaneiji Temple, one of the city’s largest and wealthiest temples and the family temple of the Shogun ruling Tokugawa clan during the Edo Period. I studied Japanese history so I am fascinated by this era, which in part was what this trip is about, well certainly the next leg….
ASAKUSA Apparently the areas past was more of a red light district full of Yakusa ( gangsters) geisha, actors and the like. Today it is a bustling tourist spot, famous for the Sensō-ji, a Buddhist temple. I also found this a good place to pick up souvenirs , on Nakamisi Dori- the street leading to the temple, strangely not overpriced. Asakusa is also home to Hanayashiki, Japan’s oldest amusement park founded in founded in 1853. There is loads of street food here, sweet potatoes and mochi. Green tea ice cream was the most popular food this time as it was hot. However I go there for cold soba noodles, a dish I have grown to love. The last time I was here i was just about to tuck into my meal when a young boy ran through the restaurant, grabbed the food out of my mouth and ran off! still makes me laugh and I go back for more every time.
MARANOUCHI – is Tokyo’s financial district located close to the Imperial Palace and Tokyo Station. Tokyo Station is the hub for most of the long distance shinkansen , and it was here I needed to go to purchase my ticket to Kyoto. The area is full of upmarket shops with all the big label names. We went to dinner at what I swear is the best Indian food in town. My Indian Didi has a suburb chain of restaurants throughout Tokyo and they are well worth visiting.
So how did we end up under a bridge drinking wine? well, after our banquet we decide a walk was in order . Remembering this place we found on our last visit, we set off to our bar under the bridge. Only a short walk from Maranouchi is a spot known in Japanese as Gado-shita, from “below the girder”, there are numerous great bars, izakayas and sushi joints alongside pizza and tapas, all with lots of beer and wine. These slightly gritty and lively bars stretch about 700 metes under the tracks of Yurakucho Station.
Tokyo is full of hidden spots, alleyways, bars, clubs, jazz rooms… you name it, it is there. I am in awe of the people all out late at night, most still on their way home from work, stopping in at these places, eating, drinking and laughing. Check this article for more on these places, and don’t miss it on a trip to Tokyo. Sitting underneath a bridge sipping wine… perfect.
Thanks for reading, off to Kyoto next.